Note: This story was originally published in 2021.
Discover the British Columbia that’s hiding in plain sight.
You may think you know British Columbia. But there is always something new to discover here, experiences so thrilling you just can’t wait to tell your friends back home. A mountain trail that leads to the most heart-stoppingly scenic peak. A bike route that soars along breathtaking canyons. Historic towns with charming shops, gourmet eats, and world-class wineries. Yep, BC has got it all.
And oftentimes the best, most exclusive experiences can be found off the well-trodden track. So be open to more by discovering the British Columbia even the locals don’t always know. Find it in these regions that are just waiting for you to explore.
The Fraser Valley is a vast region on Vancouver’s doorstep, where city deliciously meets country. Venture off busy Highway 1 and you will discover country roads that wind past farms, through historic communities, and along the mighty Fraser River as it continues its 1,375-kilomtere journey from the Rocky Mountains.
For thousands of years before the explorer Simon Fraser made his way to the valley that bears his name, Indigenous people have made this their home. Sto:Lo Cultural Tours based out of Chilliwack are a fun, thoughtful way to learn about the traditions of the vibrant Coast Salish people. Europeans arrived in the 19th century, and among their oldest communities is Fort Langley, the village that grew up around the former Hudson’s Bay Company trading post established in 1827. Its shops, restaurants, and historic homes make it a lovely place to explore (and may look familiar from all the movies they’ve been featured in). While you’re there, be sure to stop by the Indigenous owned, Ancestor Café, allowing visitors to experience Indigenous ingredients through thoughtfully crafted dishes. After your refreshing break at the café, head over to the beautifully updated shopping areas of Historic Downtown Abbotsford and District 1881 in downtown Chilliwack to continue your shopping adventure.
Outside the urban centres, there’s plenty of family-friendly fun to be had on the farm. Go apple picking in September and, in October, visit the pumpkin patches at Taves Family Farms, Willow View Farms, and Maan Farms.
Among the valley’s most famous crops is hops, and this is an excellent place to enjoy a pint of the best. Follow the BC Ale Trail to exceptional breweries, brewpubs, and tasting rooms like Trading Post Tap House & Eatery in Fort Langley, the Indigenous-owned Ravens Brewing in Abbotsford or, in Chilliwack, Farmhouse Brewing. One good place to sample all that’s brewing here is Langley’s brand-new tap room, The Barley Merchant.
This is also wine country, with a number of wineries tucked in Langley’s rolling hills. Among them is Township 7, whose sparkling wine is considered among the world’s best, Backyard Vineyards, Chaberton Estate Winery, the new fruit winery Sinocan, and Vista D’oro, which is equally famous for its inventive preserves.
Where to stay:
One of the easiest ways to get to the Fraser Valley is to take a flight from Calgary or Edmonton to Abbotsford International Airport. For overnights, consider the cute Princess and the Pea B&B in Langley, Abbotsford’s Brookside Inn, with its exquisite small property with epic breakfasts and movie-themed guest rooms, or the vintage touches, including claw-foot tubs, at The Royal Hotel in Chilliwack.
The ruggedly beautiful Similkameen Valley winds through the mountains west of Osoyoos, its steep slopes striped with vineyards and fruit trees. This is the organic capital of Canada and a growing wine region, and until recently the best reason to stop here was to hit the fruit stands and load up on peaches, cider, and samosas.
But over the last few years, the Similkameen has become an under-the radar destination for people-in-the know seeking breathtaking outdoor adventure, stunning natural beauty, and some of the best food and wine in Canada.
Experiences tend to be understated and casual, so one of the best ways to discover the region is by taking a tour. Valhalla Helicopter Tours offers a bird’s-eye view of the valley as it follows the twisting Similkameen River, where you’ll often spot anglers fishing for trout. Similkameen Sip and Cycle provides bike rentals and self-guided tours around Keremeos and Cawston, including their exceptional wineries. If two-wheeling is more effort than you’d like, or you plan to buy some of the big, well-structured reds and electric Rieslings, Grape Escapes Tours lets you explore in comfort.
For a deeper dive into the mining and other history of the region, step into the past at the Snaza’ist Discovery Centre, operated by the Upper Similkameen Indian Band. And if rugged outdoor adventure is more your thing, Cathedral Provincial Park is a place of jagged mountain peaks, crystal-clear lakes, the rustic Cathedral Lakes Lodge and, in fall, the brilliant colours of changing leaves.
Where to stay:
Outside of RV parks, accommodation here is mainly in guest houses attached to farms and wineries, such as the ones at Crowsnest Vineyards, Orofino Vineyards, and Rustic Roots Organic Winery and Cidery.
Caught between the Okanagan Plateau and Monashee Mountains, just north of the U.S. border, Boundary Country is a place of lakes for boating, mountains for climbing, and a fascinating history that can be discovered in charming towns including Christina Lake, Grand Forks, Rock Creek, and Midway.
That history includes the thriving culture of the Sinixt, an Interior Salish people who live throughout the region and into Washington State. It also recounts how the landscape changed dramatically in the 19th century with the quest for precious minerals—first gold and then copper. Those who struck it rich built grand homes in Greenwood and Grand Forks, and created the Kettle Valley Railway to get the ore to market.
In the 1990s, the railway was transformed into the multi-use Kettle Valley Rail Trail, which stretches from Hope to Castelgar, with some of its most scenic stretches in Boundary Country. It is part of some 2,000 kilometres of trails to explore here—including the Trans-Canada Trail—so bring your hiking boots and your mountain bike.
If you’re not on a trail, you’ll want to get out on the water. Several rivers run through the region, but the 290-kilometre-long Kettle River offers the best options for floating, paddling, and fishing, especially drift fishing by pontoon boat. Meanwhile, the deep, warm Christina Lake is a paradise for boaters, paddlers, and swimmers alike.
Afterwards, pop into one of the nearby towns for a bite to eat and a taste of culture—check out Gallery 2 in Grand Forks or the Kettle River Museum in Midway.
Where to stay:
This area is popular for campers and RV-ers, but for those seeking something different, Second Breakfast Hideaway is a hobbit-house-like earth dwelling east of Osoyoos, while the Old Cowboy Ranch near Rock Creek is a working ranch with easy access to the Rail Trail.
Nature is wild in the Kootenay Rockies. Jagged snow-capped peaks tower over lush valleys. Rushing rivers tumble down rocky slopes. Dark, mysterious forests rustle with wildlife. Lakes plunge to untold depths.
Countless hiking trails for every fitness level meander through the hills near Kimberley, Invermere, Nelson, and Golden, all offering spectacular views. Prefer a gnarlier, more heart-pumping adventure? Then hop on your bike and explore the countless cycling trails.
While you do, keep an eye out for wildlife. The Birdwatchers Route is the best way to spot the hundreds of species that call this home, as well as the thousands of migratory birds that flock here in spring and fall. The 7,000-hectare Creston Valley Wildlife Management Area is home to an incredible array of biodiversity, including more than 300 bird species and 60 mammals such as bears, lynx, and elk. Don’t miss the annual Headbanger Festival in Radium, which celebrates the magnificent bighorn sheep each fall.
Nature is also civilized here. There are great golf courses, hot springs, breweries such as Erie Creek Brewing Company in Salmo, Tailout Brewing in Castlegar, and the Trail Beer Refinery, as well as a growing number of wineries in the Creston area, including Baillie Grohman, Skimmerhorn, and Red Bird Estate.
Communities like Nelson and Kaslo charm with their 19th century downtowns and heritage homes, courtesy of the region’s mining boom. The Indigenous culture of the Kootenays is also celebrated through tours, attractions, and interpretative centres. Among them: Legend Logos & Lake Tours near Creston; Ktunaxa Interpretive Centre at St. Eugene, a golf resort near Cranbrook; and Ainsworth Hot Springs, which is owned by the Lower Kootenay Band, members of the Ktunaxa Nation.
Where to stay:
In Nelson, the historic Hume Hotel couldn’t be more conveniently located. Or head to the hills and check out Copper Point Resort in Invermere, Northstar Mountain Village and Mountain Spirit in Kimberley, or Fairmont Hot Springs farther north.
From: North Vancouver
Joanne Sasvari has travelled to many places around the globe, writing about food, drink and culture, but her favourite destination is right here at home in British Columbia. Based in North Vancouver, she writes about BC for a variety of print and online publications, and is also the author of Frommer’s EasyGuide to Vancouver & Victoria. When not exploring the most delicious corners of the province, she edits Westcoast Homes & Design magazine and uses her Wine and Spirits Education Trust training to savour the best local libations.
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