Exploring the Bugaboos in BC’s Purcell Mountains

Known by many as simply “The Bugs,” the Bugaboos in the Purcell Mountains of BC are one of the province’s great natural wonders. Spires of sheer rock soar skyward out of oceans of broken snow and ice.

The entire location is nothing short of stunning and most visitors to the area will have seen nothing like it before in their lives.

This is how it was for me. I spend quite a bit of time hiking and exploring in my local mountains in Coastal BC, but nothing prepared me for what I would see and experience in the Bugaboos. It’s understandable why this arena of rock not only attracts climbers from around the world but also hikers, artists, runners and families. If you visit this area, prepare to make memories that will last a lifetime.

Views out towards the Hounds Tooth and the Bugaboo Glacier from near the Conrad Kain Hut

Getting There:

To get to the Bugaboos, either drive 77 km (48 mi) south of Golden, or 27 km (17 mi) north of Radium Hot Springs to the small community of Brisco. Turn west onto Bugaboo Creek Road and follow it for 50 km (31 mi). This road is quite rough and narrow in sections so care should be taken.

When you get to the parking area be sure to surround the base of your vehicle with wire, logs and rocks to protect its underside from the tenacious porcupines, known to chew through brake lines. These supplies are provided for you, but bringing extra chicken wire is also recommended.

Protecting our car from the Porcupines with wire, stones and sticks

If the Conrad Kain Hut is your destination, then on a clear day you will be able to see it ahead of you from the parking area. Something that is quite unique about the hike in.

Even though the hut is only 4.6 km (2.9 mi) from the parking area, it is more than 700 m (2297 ft) higher up. Be prepared for a steep and strenuous, but short hike. If you are experienced with backpacking, it should take you somewhere between 2-4 hours depending on how heavy your pack is.

The ladder climb on the trail in to the Bugaboos

Even though the trail is steep, it is incredibly well built. One of the best trails I’ve ever been on. In sections of steep rock, steps have been built and chain handrails installed to assist you. There is also one mandatory ladder that is about 6 m (20 ft) tall but not too difficult. If you have young children you may want to assist them in climbing this ladder.

The views for most of the hike in are amazing as you look up the valley towards the “Hounds Tooth” and the tongue of the Bugaboo Glacier.

Where to Stay:

You have a few options as to where to stay in the Bugaboos if you are staying overnight.

1. The Conrad Kain Hut

The Conrad Kain Hut with the Anniversary Glacier behind

The first is the Conrad Kain Hut. The price is $25 per night which is amazing considering the location, and can be booked up to 6 months in advance with the Alpine Club of Canada membership (or can be booked up to 3 months in advance without a membership). The hut has an electric heater and electric lights, a handy propane stove, a mattress (in dorm-like sleeping area, for 35 people), portable water from a nearby creek, and a clean outhouse. Sleeping is dorm style like at a hostel.

The weather turned rapidly during my visit on a number of occasions and I was glad to have the hut to come back to to dry off and wait out the weather.

The entrance to the spacious Conrad Kain Hut

2. Applebee Dome Campground

The Applebee Dome Campground is about an hour beyond the Conrad Kain Hut. A backcountry permit is needed year-round and can be booked online or with the park operator during peak season (July–October). Benefits include the fact that it is cheaper at $10 per night, and the views are truly panoramic.

The drawback to the panoramic views is that this camping area is exposed to any weather that might blow in. The Bugs are notorious for having sudden changes in weather. During my short visit at least 3 days were forecast to be sunny but instead we woke up to storms and snow.

Looking down on the Applebee Dome campsite with the Bugaboo Glacier behind

Custodians try to post weather updates to a bulletin board at Applebee daily. If a system of bad weather is rolling in and you are camping, you can always escape to the hut for a few days. The hut custodians take cash and credit if there is availability.

If you are staying for a week or less, then definitely stay at the hut. Watching the sunrise from the dining area windows each morning was amazing. Watching the storms rolling in and then feeling the gusts of wind vibrate the cabin was awe inspiring also.

No matter how long your adventure lasts, plan ahead and travel responsibly by embracing Leave No Trace principles.

Looking down on the Conrad Kain Hut after the storm

What to do:

Single Day:

A hike to the Applebee camp is amazing. If you continue past this campground you will be able to visit a series of picturesque lakes below Eastpost Spire. If you are looking to climb up something, then Eastpost Spire itself is a worthwhile objective. The scrambling to the summit is mostly easy with a few Class 4 moves to gain the summit itself.

Multiple Days:

If you are looking to climb something in the Bugaboos, give yourself a few days to get a perfect weather window. First on your list should definitely be the West Ridge of Pigeon Spire.

The grade is 5.4 YDS, but the majority of it is Class 4. It is known as the “Best 5.4 in the World” for good reason. People from all over the world visit the Bugaboos to climb this route. It’s scenic, high quality and the exposure is truly wild. It will give you that big mountain feeling that is difficult to find elsewhere on rock of this easier grade.

Descending from the first sub-summit on Pigeon Spire

To explore the spires, you’ll need mountaineering skills, even with a guide, as navigating these peaks requires advanced expertise and preparation. Even if you’re not a climber, this area is definitely worth a visit. While in the area we met trail runners just passing through, families staying at the hut with their children, seasoned climbers as hard as nails and also novices looking to hone their skills on the easier routes. The Bugaboos offer something for everyone.

Celebrations on the summit of Pigeon Spire during a perfect day in the mountains.