BC's Coolest Ski Towns

Fernie: Old-school skiing at its finest

Two years ago I finally made that road-trip journey in British Columbia. In a car packed to the hilt, four of us drove into Fernie at dusk and headed directly to The Brickhouse Bar and Grill, a local institution, where, within an hour, we were chatting with a local patroller, a city council member, and a pair of shop owners.

Fernie Alpine Resort is best known for its light, fluffy powder and vast terrain. It has entire runs through old-growth cedars, great views across the river valley of the Rockies, and a massive rock headwall that acts as a backdrop behind the five named bowls. But even that is selling it short. What hooked me was more than the world-class skiing—it was the laid-back culture of this mining town-turned ski mecca.

The ski resort was founded in 1961 and still maintains an old-school, dirtbag mentality: “keeping rippers ripped.” Everyone in Fernie is there to have a good time; nobody cares what you’re wearing or how fancy your skis are. And while you’ll find world-class amenities like high-speed lifts and great dining, it’s with a simple, friendly, relaxed feel.

That same attitude translates off-slope, whether you’re making tracks in the snow on a fat bike, throwing curling rocks, or skating at the outdoor rink. Post-activity, you can keep the festive mood going during the popular Griz Days festival.

Nelson: Small place, big personality

A few hours west on the Powder Highway is Nelson, a ski town known for all-season adventure. Set on Kootenay Lake, Nelson is home to an eclectic mix of artists and artisans, funky shops and heritage buildings. And it’s just 20 minutes from Whitewater Ski Resort.

Here, skiing and riding is the sole focus—what the locals refer to as “master of one.” The resort works closely with a number of heli- and cat-skiing operations nearby, including Summit Mountain Guides, Kootenay Backcountry Guides, Big Red Cats, and Stellar Heli.

As a bonus, Whitewater, nestled deep in the Selkirk Mountains, has no WiFi or cell reception, which means people often talk to total strangers in lift lines, on chairlifts, and over a meal at Fresh Tracks Cafe—homegrown fare that has spawned a series of popular cookbooks. These interactions, while seemingly banal, made a big difference during my visit, creating a sense of community on and off the slopes.

Whistler: lively village, legendary après

My exploration ended further west in North America’s best-known resort, Whistler Blackcomb. Recognized for its staggering size—200+ runs and over 3,237 skiable hectares (8,000 acres) of terrain—you could ski at Whistler for weeks without riding the same line. All told, the resort has 16 bowls, three glaciers, and is open year round, other than a short break in the fall. With its sheer size rivaling the biggest resorts in the States and in Europe, the truly impressive part is that the town itself still feels small and friendly, unlike many of its counterparts.

A shared passion for skiing is the fabric that binds this community. Adventurists from around the world are drawn here to work and play, creating a tight-knit feel with a strong international vibe. And while Whistler may not seem like an obvious candidate for small-town life, it’s comfortable and relaxed. In the span of a day, I laughed with locals over a morning coffee before trading stories with an entirely new crew later that evening.

We found that the Village was the best place to mingle, whether at galleries and restaurants, or tucked into a cozy spot for a live-music performance. And there’s plenty more to entertain, from axe-throwing at Forged, to bobsleigh and skeleton at the Whistler Sliding Centre, ATV and snowmobile tours with Canadian Wilderness Adventures, and guided backcountry and heli-assisted touring with Extremely Canadian.

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