Ski in British Columbia: Six Mountains to Visit—or Revisit—This Season

Note: This story was originally published in 2019.

At Apex Mountain Resort—a place I’ve never before skied—I suddenly find myself standing atop a hidden little bowl filled with untracked snow. How can this be? It’s the Sunday afternoon of a long weekend at the height of winter. At home in Whistler, weekends like this are rocking, particularly when either powder or sunshine are involved. Here at Apex, the day is both powdery and sunny—yet the only other people in sight are my husband and our ski buddy.

Moments ago the three of us were bounding, hearts pumping, down a long, steep chute. Then we slithered through a cluster of trees and popped onto this unexpectedly untracked scene. The bowl’s expanse of virgin snow fans away from the tips of our skis, an open invitation. I dive right in. The fresh powder is knee deep and feather light, like something in a ski dream. We all whoop with glee.

As a British Columbian, making this fun dream a reality requires just two key steps: Pack the car and open your mind to discovering new adventures in BC on snowboard or skis. There’s never been a better winter to do it (and we’ve got essential tips on how to successfully plan your on-snow adventures during this very different year.)

For this story, five other writers and I tried this snowy two-step. Each of us has a BC mountain that’s our go-to place to ski or board—the mountain where we live, have a season pass, or simply feel most at home. And each of us adventured somewhere new in our BC backyard—from Apex, Big White, and Kimberley to Mt. Washington, SilverStar, and Sun Peaks—to experience fresh ski destinations within ready reach of home. Here is what we found.

Ski a Hidden Gem: Apex Mountain Resort

I first heard about Apex from other diehard skiers on Whistler’s chairlifts. “It’s great for families,” they said. “A little gem,” they said. “A real skier’s mountain.”

Located on the rim of the Okanagan, not far from Penticton, Apex is all that and more. The mountain’s 1,114 skiable acres and 2,000-foot vertical drop make it similar in size to Whitewater, the cult favorite near Nelson, BC. Its location delivers dry, light Okanagan powder, like SilverStar. Its upper mountain steeps pitch like Kicking Horse, with some 20 north-facing couloirs branching into countless long lines through well-spaced trees.

Of course, there also are broad boulevards perfect for groomed cruising, kid-friendly learner zones and plenty of terrain park action—plus fun weekend night skiing. Everything funnels back to a low-key mini base village with a Wild West theme, where there’s also an ice rink, a tube park, and an adventure skating loop through the woods. Snowshoe and Nordic trails are plentiful. And all lodgings are steps from the slopes (making it easy to vacation with your bubble yet never use the car).

Easygoing, athletic time together in the outdoors is an equation that works in my little family, and we’re relaxed and happy when we leave. Down in Penticton, we take a day to tour regional vineyards that are open in winter—a fun and entirely uncrowded way to experience wine country. Back at home, I quickly become the one talking up Apex on the chairlifts: “It’s great for families <and> it’s a total skier’s mountain. We loved it! What a little gem.”

– Susan Reifer Ryan

We’ve spent most of today chasing each other down swooping pitches, banked gullies, and smooth groomers. Next we want to find Narnia, a fabled tree run hidden off the map. It promises knee-deep powder and more fantastical adventures. When our legs give out this afternoon, we’ll indulge in pink donuts at The Bull Wheel then go back to being dads, drinking beer in our boots on the lounge chairs outside The Woods.

Throughout we find plenty of room for our Mt. Washington pod to bond, particularly over our newest passion: Hunting snow-ghosts.

– Ryan Stuart

BC’s fourth-largest ski resort receives 700 cm (23 ft) of light snow each season. The white fluff settles enticingly across four mountain faces that offer up huge variety, from the front side’s bowls, tree runs, and wide, swooping cruisers to the backside’s expert steeps.

SilverStar’s size (3,200 acres) means you often find yourself gliding through marshmallow glades and floating down forgiving mogul fall lines with only those in your bubble group. And it’s not uncommon to ski right onto the chairlift, even on a weekend.

On the lower mountain, the alpine runs intersect with multi-use trails, so you’ll ski right by fat bikers and snowshoers—and can even try those pursuits yourself.

The resort’s expansiveness is offset by a compact village, located mid-mountain, where Victorian-style buildings are painted in cheery shades of orange, purple, red, and blue. Caught in its friendly embrace of après-ski hot chocolate (kids) and BC wine (adults) after a day of fresh air and exercise, you’ll vow to return. We did.

– Lisa Kadane

And, of course, there’s the thing that truly sets Canada’s second largest area apart: The crowds (or, more specifically, the lack thereof). With over 4,270 acres of terrain and seven chairlifts, lines remain small (even on those epic powder days) and slopes are spacious (particularly appealing now).

While skiing remains the central draw, Sun Peaks offers plenty of other activities, including 37 km (23 mi) of impeccably groomed and track-set Nordic trails and dog sledding through snowy forests with Mountain Man Dog Sled Adventures.

But perhaps the thing I like most about Sun Peaks is its friendly, family-fun vibe. You’ll see it on the slopes or when you grab a coffee at Bolacco Café (a family-owned and -operated institution adored by locals and visitors alike) or a bite to eat at Bottoms Bar & Grill (a quintessential ski bar with a shot ski hanging from the roof). And it’s reason enough to come back.

– Joel Barde

Later a local’s tip sends us to “Kootenay Haus,” a bring-your-own bag lunch warm-up shelter with a pay-by-donation coffee pot, a set-up that is altogether perfect for social distancing. The sweeping Columbia Valley view makes us want to linger for sunset, but there’s more of that cool mountain town to explore. We chase each other down Mascot Trail (a bumpy bobsled track meant for pliable young knees) before trading ski duds for town casual—and thick celebratory slices at Stonefire Pizzeria.

– Andrew Findlay

Mt. Washington also is the coast, literally. Named for Rear Admiral John W. Washington, official hydrographer to the British Royal Navy, the only way to ski closer to the ocean would be in it. And if the occasional fogbound day on the hill makes you feel out to sea? Switch to cross-country gear to enjoy 55 km (34 mi) of world-class Nordic trails heralded as some of Canada’s best.

– Leslie Anthony