Haida Gwaii is a remote and serene locale where visitors can enjoy any number of outdoor activities such as fishing, hiking, camping, and surfing.
About Haida Gwaii
Haida Gwaii means "Islands of the People." The area consists of more than 150 islands of varying sizes. It is the most remote archipelago in Canada, located parallel to the northwest coast of mainland British Columbia, 100km/62mi across the Hecate Strait from Prince Rupert.
Only two of the area's largest islands are developed. Graham Island in the north has six official communities, and the majority of inhabitants and infrastructure. Moresby Island, just to its south, is home to one community, Sandspit.
Greater Massett, Tow Hill, and Port Clements
The main communities on Graham Island include Old Massett, Tlell, and Skidegate, and the Villages of Masset, Port Clements and Queen Charlotte. Old Massett (population: 694) in the north is a Haida Village full of artists. Masset (population: 940), just a few minutes drive west of Old Massett has a strong military history. Old Massett and Masset together form Greater Masset.
Another small evolving community is that of Tow Hill (population: approximately 200). The residents here live along the road to North Beach mostly within Naikoon Provincial Park, about a 20-minute drive east of Greater Massett.
About a half an hour drive south on the highway from Masset is Port Clements (population: 440), a logging town known as the gateway to the more rugged wilderness on the west coast of Graham Island. A 25-minute drive south of Port Clements, on the east coast of the island, is the artsy and agricultural community of Tlell (population: 400).
Skidegate, Queen Charlotte, and Sandspit
Another half an hour drive from there is Skidegate (population: 781), another Haida village on the island. The ferry from Prince Rupert on mainland BC arrives on the edge of this community. It's also the home of the Haida Heritage Centre at Kaay Llnagaay, a new, beautiful establishment which includes a fabulous museum, gift shop, carving shed, and much more. The Haida Heritage Centre is a must see for all visitors wanting a deeper understanding of the islands' first inhabitants.
Only a couple minutes drive south from Skidegate, is the Village of Queen Charlotte (population: 948). Queen Charlotte has the largest selection of accommodation, restaurants and stores of all the communities. It's known as the government service centre of the island.
On Moresby Island, Sandspit (pop: 402) is another town with a history of logging, and is more secluded from the other communities of Haida Gwaii, however, it has a relatively large airport and Visitor Centre.
Getting to Haida Gwaii
The islands are only accessible by plane and boat. Graham Island is served regularly by BC Ferries that travels to Prince Rupert, on the northwest coast of BC's mainland. Daily flights from Prince Rupert and Vancouver also arrive in Masset and Sandspit.
The main road on the islands, Highway 16, runs for 113km/70mi north to south along Graham Island, passing through each of the communities. It continues for another 22km/14mi to arrive in Sandspit. A half hour ferry runs several times daily between Skidegate Landing on Graham Island and Alliford Bay on Moresby Island, connecting the islands.
Amenities
Visitors to the Charlottes will find everything they need here such as basic supplies and services. Almost every community has a gas station and general store, if not more than one. Cellphones have just started to work on most sections of the islands. Several of the accommodations and coffee shops now have wireless internet, and the community libraries and Visitor Centres usually have computers for visitors to use. The island has several remote fishing lodges. The charm of the Charlottes is its laid back, simple yet full lifestyle.
Where to Begin
Visitor Centres are located in Sandspit and Queen Charlotte. Official visitor guides are available at both, as are brochures for individual businesses. The visitor guide has an excellent map and tons of information.
The island is busy in the summer between May and September, and much quieter in the winter. Note that many businesses reduce their hours or stop operating during the winter.
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