When more than half a century of active coal mining came to an abrupt end in the 1950s, Fernie (pop: 4,200) set about creating a brand new identity for itself – as a mecca for outdoor recreation.
People come here for the powder – an average winter will dump almost 9m/29ft of the stuff on Fernie Alpine Resort. Winter offerings include skiing, snowboarding, cat skiing, cross-country skiing and snowmobiling.
In the spring, when snow reluctantly retreats from the Elk Valley in the Kootenay Rockies, new possibilities are revealed. These include flyfishing, hiking, river rafting and mountain biking.
Situated about halfway up the western slope of the Crowsnest Pass and surrounded by snowcapped peaks, Fernie has a timeless charm. The main street, for example, is comprised of end-to-end heritage buildings that have changed little in a century.
Fernie: Outdoor Adventure Mecca
Nevertheless, change is apparent in this mountain town. What used to be a bank is now a restaurant, a house by the highway is now a sushi bar, and downtown stores that used to sell groceries and mining supplies are now full of outdoor gear.
While approximately half of the city's workforce is still employed in mining – these days, miners commute 15 minutes up the highway to Sparwood – many of Fernie's full-time residents are relative newcomers. In recent years, hundreds of resort condominiums have been built, and houses in town have been snapped up as vacation properties. At the same time, the service industry has attracted young people from all over Canada and the rest of the world. Somehow, through it all, Fernie retains a quality of friendliness that's palpable.
Things to do in Fernie
Whatever you do in Fernie, it starts with enjoying the scenery – open the curtains, there's a stunning mountain view. In winter, it's all about the snow. Go skiing and snowboarding just a few minutes from town at Fernie Alpine Resort. Explore the backcountry with cat skiing and snowmobiling, or get a workout with cross-country skiing.
When the snow is gone, the Elk Valley becomes a summer playground, complete with opportunities for fishing, river rafting, mountain biking and hiking.
Take a walk around town with the help of a self-directed walking tour, and learn more about the architecture of Trinity Church, City Hall and the striking Fernie Courthouse.
Visit with the locals in a downtown coffee shop or at the Griz Bar at the resort.
Festivals
In February, the Fernie Mountain Film Festival is a celebration of films about mountains, waterways, culture and the environment.
Fernie's legendary mountain man ("Griz" allegedly grew up in the wilderness in the 1800s) is celebrated during Griz Days, a four-day festival in early March.
The Fernie Writers Conference is a program of workshops designed to develop the writer's craft. This two week event brings writers together for morning sessions, leaving afternoons open for the pursuit of inspiration.
August is a celebration of everything mountain biking. The final stage of the grueling Trans-Rockies Race arrives in Fernie with much fanfare in the middle of the month. A week later, Fernie Alpine Resort hosts the Full Throttle Mountain Bike Festival.
September brings the action downtown with A Taste of Fernie. Sponsored by the Fernie and District Arts Council, this culinary festival is served up with live music on the side.
Where to Start
Pop in at the Fernie Visitor Centre on Dicken Road, just north of town. Get information, maps, recommendations and other advice about what to see and do in town.
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