An Insider's Guide To Muskwa-Kechika

What if I told you there is a place where the land still breathes as it always has, where blazing aurora skies are cleaved open by dramatic mountain peaks, and cold, clear waters flow past vast herds of caribou, elk, sheep, and goats?

In the Muskwa-Kechika, it is possible to walk for weeks and never meet another soul, never hear or see anything but the elemental sights and sounds of nature. Few have heard of this place—and even fewer have been here—but those lucky few refer to it with deep reverence: musk-quah-ke-chee-kah, a name connected with First Nations language of the land.

Now, if I told you that the first day you leave this place will be the first day you yearn to go back, would you go?

A yellow tent lit up by interior lights shines underneath a starry sky as vibrant green Aurora Borealis dance across the sky.

Muskwa-Kechika | Northern BC Tourism/Andrew Strain

A Step Off the Beaten Track

Arguably the crown jewel of The Great Wilderness, the Muskwa-Kechika Management Area (known locally as simply “the M-K”) is a step off the beaten track toward a greater connection with and appreciation for nature and a refreshed perspective on our true place in the way of things.

Although still relatively unknown, the Muskwa-Kechika (its name originates from the Dene language meaning “bear” and “long inclining river”) is the largest intact wilderness area on the North American continent. It is home to an astonishing array of biodiversity—including megafauna such as moose, bison, grizzly bears, black bears, cougars, and wolves.

The M-K is situated in the Canadian Rockies, in Northeast British Columbia, and comprises 6.4 million hectares (nearly 16 million acres) of watershed—comparable in size to the country of Ireland. It is also the largest wild space in the entire Rocky Mountain ecosystem, making it the beating heart of the Yellowstone to Yukon land corridor. Few places in the world can match its awe-inspiring size and abundance.

A dancer from Leona Smith - Muskwa River Fancy Dancers - Fort Nelson First Nation, dressed in vibrant traditional attire holds a feather fan.

Leona Smith of the Muskwa River Fancy Dancers, Fort Nelson First Nation in Treaty 8 | Northern BC Tourism/Ryan Dickie

Stories of the Land

First Nations—including the Kaska Dena, Treaty 8 Nations, and Carrier-Sekani—have called the Muskwa-Kechika home since time immemorial. They have both stewarded and harvested from its lands and waters for generations. The M-K holds layers of their stories hidden deep in its many creases and folds: stories of creation, ancestors, sacred places, diverse cultural practices, and rich ecological knowledge.

According to the Dene, ancient Dreamers erected Dechinn (wooden cross markers) in sacred places throughout the M-K to safeguard them, so the people would always have something to fall back on during times of need or famine, and the animals would always have a refuge. These Dechinn can still be seen scattered throughout the landscape today, symbolizing the original vision of the M-K as a protected area of cultural significance.

The Kaska Dena have recently proposed a new model over a portion of the M-K called an Indigenous Protected and Conserved Area (IPCA). They’ve named it “Dene Kʼéh Kusān,” meaning “always will be there.” The hope is this new approach will ensure the long-term protection of the area, allow for greater shared decision-making, and help preserve the rich material, cultural, and spiritual lives of the Kaska people.

A horseback guide leads two horses across a grassy foothill with rugged mountains in the background.

MK Adventures | Taylor Burk

Conservation and Stewardship

The Muskwa-Kechika Management Area exists because a few passionate and committed individuals fought for its protection. In the 1990s, a diverse group of First Nations, conservationists, guide outfitters, and fur trappers negotiated with government and industry to establish a world-first land use framework that separates the M-K into distinct zones and allows resource extraction in certain areas only if strict cultural and environmental values are adhered to. Twenty-five years on, the model has not been without its challenges, but it remains a testament to collaboration in wilderness conservation.

Hoodoos line the gorge of Wokkpash Creek | Northern BC Tourism/Andrew Strain

Getting Here

Being so remote, a visit to the Muskwa-Kechika requires research and planning. The nearest town is Fort Nelson, located approximately 90 km (56 mi) northeast of the M-K along the Alaska Highway (Highway 97), a great stepping-off point to the wonders of Northern BC with a range of accommodation and food options. If road trips are your thing—especially those that include roadside wildlife viewing, northern lights, and hot springs—then the Great Northern Circle Route will fill your cup to brimming. However, if you want to venture into the furthest reaches of the M-K, horse-packing expeditions, jet boat trips, and floatplane flights are your ticket to one of the grandest nature shows on earth. There are benefits to visiting the M-K in all seasons, however July to September is the most popular time to visit as it’s the prime time for wildflowers, wildlife, and warmer weather.

Choosing a guide with a deep connection to the area will help make your M-K experience unforgettable. Wayne Sawchuk of MK Adventures has led multi-day horseback expeditions into the M-K for 30-plus years, recently alongside renowned wranglers Michelle Creegan-Dougherty and Alex Lepp. MK Adventures also offers fly-in and boat-in options to remote field camps at Mayfield Lake and Muncho Lake. Jocelyn McDonald of Peak Wyld Co. offers hiking, snowshoeing, and cross-country ski trips into the M-K, including a seven-day backpacking trip into Wokkpash Lake. Northern Rockies Adventures offers flightseeing and guided adventures in areas of the Muskwa-Kechika, with lodging at its doorstep.

If you need somewhere to rest your tired bones after exploring the innermost heart of the M-K, do as the Northerners do and visit the Liard River Hot Springs for a healing soak. Its mineral waters will rejuvenate your body, while the silence and stillness of the place will refresh your mind.

A visit to the Muskwa-Kechika should be on every bucket list. Traversing its trails, dipping in its pure waters, and inhaling its fresh air—this is a place you go not to seek the absence of something, but to feel the presence of everything.