Telegraph Cove rejoices in unspoiled wilderness.
With its benevolent climate and natural terrain of rainforest, islands and mountains, it's a natural hub for hiking on northern Vancouver Island and has some of the most adventurous and varied hiking in BC.
Ideal for novice hikers is the most popular, accessible, 3.7km/2.3mi Marble River Trail leading through rich, verdant rainforest in Marble Creek Recreation Park.
In Cape Scott Provincial Park, those balking at the challenging Cape Scott Trail will feel vastly more comfortable with the 1.5 hour hike to San Josef Bay and back. The trail even accommodates strollers.
Also popular for hikers is Malcolm Island, a short boat ride across the strait. A network of well-maintained trails transports hikers to pristine lakes, spectacular rock formations and ocean vistas. Or spend days shore walking and beachcombing around the island's periphery. Be sure to bring a camera for dramatic perspectives on land, sea and sky.
The 3.5-km/2.1-mi Mateoja Heritage Trail, located on Malcolm Island, is an easy day walk through the island's physical diversity. Starting from 3rd Street near the water tower, it follows the pioneer route to the Mateoja farm site, descends to Melvin's Bog – a great bird-watching site – and ends at Big Lake. Decks and benches offer a breather and bird watching continues. Count on an hour each way plus stops.
Moderate Hikes
Also on Malcolm Island is the Beautiful Bay Trail. Beautiful Bay isn't on the map. It's a nickname used by local fishermen. The trail begins just out of town at the Bere Point Campground. Orcas arrive to rub – exfoliating barnacles and other debris from their hides – on nearby beaches in early summer and fall. If whales are present, the walk stops here.
The 5km/3.1mi trail along the bay takes in northern shores, old growth forests, giant Sitka spruce, beaches, rainforest, the Pouli Vali canyon and a viewpoint overlooking Beautiful Bay and the Numas Islands. Plan to walk two hours each way plus stops. And be sure to check the tidal schedule: high tides can restrict the beach route.
Advanced Hikes
Seasoned hikers may prefer the 48km/30mi-roundtrip Cape Scott Trail starting from the lighthouse in Cape Scott Provincial Park. Second only to the West Coast Trail in BC hiking fame, the trail is superbly maintained and outfitted with boardwalk, but still plenty challenging.
Veteran hikers may also gravitate southwards to Schoen Lake Provincial Park, a wilderness accessed by active logging road. The challenging trail climbs to the summit of 1,802m/5,912ft-high Mount Schoen. The view from the top fills the eye, but it's the feel and sights of the climb that leave hikers raving.
Hiking Tours
Port McNeill's North Island Daytrippers offers guided day hikes, including an hour-long hike that transports walkers through rainforest to Raft Cove, a beautiful beach prized by surfers. The hike to San Josef Bay and Ronnings Garden leads to white sand beaches separated by sea caves and a further hike to a panoramic view from Mount Saint Patrick.
Company founder Dave Trebett, a veteran of almost three decades on the trails, accompanies all hikes, imparts insights and treats visitors to off-the-beaten-path fascinations.
Heli-Hiking
West Coast Helicopters, also based in Port McNeill, offers heli-hiking and sightseeing tours to remote wilderness locations. Their hiking and glacier tour involves not only soaring over the glacier but landing square on it for a hike and high-altitude gourmet picnic. When not boggling at the glacier and its top-of-the-world perspective, hikers should watch for exotic flowers and wildlife – and should listen for whistling marmots.
Practical Information
For all hikes, weather and ground conditions can be unpredictable. Good hiking boots and layered duds are a must.
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