The Johnstone Strait and Broughton Archipelago region is the homeland of the Kwakwaka'wakw First Nation, which migrated here as early as 9,000 years ago.
Aboriginal bands speaking the Kwakwaka'wakw language constitute a significant minority and the majority in many smaller communities. They imbue the region with a rich cultural heritage and compelling recent history.
Passengers discover the Aboriginal tradition of potlatch and view the Potlatch Collection, a stunning collection of ceremonial masks and regalia once outlawed in this country.
Potlatch Ceremonies
Canada had outlawed the ceremony of the potlatch in 1884. Authorities seized ceremonial regalia, including masks, robes and rattles. Yet the potlatch was unthreatening, a ceremony to connect First Nations peoples to their unwritten past and changing social codes. After more than 65 years of official theft, the confiscated items were returned from museums and private collections throughout North America. One result is this outstanding museum.
The Big House
A visit to the Big House, a short walk from the U'mista Cultural Centre, introduces newcomers to First Nations drumming and dancing. The hall, based on traditional Kwakwaka'wakw homes, accommodates an audience of 1,200. Traditional dances performed with gusto for transfixed audiences include the Welcome, Cannibal, Salmon, Wild Women and Wolf Dances.
World's Tallest Totem Pole
The totem pole located near the entrance is, at 53m/173ft, the world's tallest. Look closely for carved images of man, wolf, thunderbirds, bear and salmon. Totem poles are unique examples of Aboriginal art famed throughout the world.
Namgis Burial Grounds
No visit to Alert Bay is complete without a stroll to the Namgis Burial Grounds just east of the town centre. Visitors aren't allowed inside, but can photograph the funerary totems perfectly from the sidewalk.
Crossing to Sointula
Port McNeill's other cultural adventure involves a wholly different tribe, the Finns who built the community of Sointula on Malcolm Island, a 25-minute ferry ride from Port McNeill. The Finns arrived in 1902 in search of Utopia. They settled for a foundry, brickyard, blacksmith shop, firehall, community centre, shops and homes. Then they threw in the towel and went home. Those who stayed defined the community as it is today.
Come tour the village and have a camera ready for colourfully painted houses, heritage sites, the oldest co-op store in BC and the works of contemporary painters and photographers.
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