When valley cloud settles in over the West Arm, as it often does in winter, Nelsonites head for the hills. Less than half an hour from downtown, there is alpine skiing, snowboarding, ski touring, snowshoeing, track-set Nordic trails, and the promise of some otherwise elusive sunshine. Whitewater Winter Resort offers all of these.
Downhill Skiing
Whitewater receives an average annual snowfall of 13.5m/45ft, and according to Ski Canada magazine, has the "Best Deeps, Best Bowls, and Best Glades". The terrain consists of approximately 20% beginner, 40% intermediate and 40% advanced. There are some 20 km/12.5mi of intermediate/advanced Nordic trails that are groomed for both skate and classic techniques.
Rentals and Equipment
The ski shop has rentals for every activity, including snowshoeing and ski touring equipment such as probes, beacons and shovels. Some skiers use the lift at Whitewater to gain elevation for back country powder adventures. There are also cat-skiing opportunities in Nelson, though not through Whitewater.
While Whitewater doesn't have a glamorous village and there is no overnight accommodation on the hill, the rustic day lodge does have fantastic food. So good, in fact, that it was the subject of a glowing review in the New York Times. Popular recipes have been compiled into a cookbook, Whitewater Cooks, which has been a Canadian bestseller. Fresh Tracks Café is a good place to start for a healthy lunch.
The US-based Powder Magazine summed up what locals have known and loved for years: "If you took everything that mattered and put into one area, you would have Whitewater."
Getting to Whitewater
Whitewater is approximately 18km/11mi south of Nelson. Take Highway 6 toward Salmo. A daily shuttle bus operates between Nelson and Whitewater.