Seen from the Valley, the Lizard Range - such a great name for a mountain range - rises to a series of spiky peaks. Beyond the ridge, the elevation keeps rising to the playground of two of Fernie's snow cats. A third operator has tenure on the other side of the valley. Each offers a unique cat-skiing experience in the deep, dry powder of the Kootenay Rockies.
Powder Cowboy Cat Skiing
With access to close to 2500ha/6000ac of open slopes, big bowls and treed glades, Powder Cowboy promises a daily total of up to 4267m/14,000ft of vertical.
In a recreational activity that is dominated by men, women may enjoy the "low-pressure" Girlski tours, for which most of the guides and snow cat drivers are women. Powder Cowboy also offers an innovative kids program for 12-18-year-olds. Day skiing is available on a standby basis.
It may not come as a complete surprise to learn that Powder Cowboy operates out of a dude ranch in the valley. The western theme is evident, with accommodation provided in comfortable cabins, and horses in the barn. However, the only saddle visitors are likely to see is the one where they park the snow cat, high in the Alpine.
Island Lake Lodge
The journey from the valley to Island Lake Lodge begins with a 35-minute snowcat ride through Mount Fernie Provincial Park to the head of Cedar Valley. Situated at an elevation of 1460m/4790ft, the Lodge is comprised of handcrafted log and timber-frame structures.
At and above this elevation, snow accumulates to a depth of up to 5m/16ft, and the surface layer is pure, dry champagne powder. From the lodge, snow cats efficiently transport skiers and snowboarders into 2800ha/7000ac of deep trees, gentle glades and alpine bowls.
The service here is as luxurious as might be expected from what is perhaps the most exclusive cat ski operation in the world. This intimate mountain experience includes deluxe accommodation, fine dining, an extensive selection of fine wines, and pampering spa services.
Fernie Wilderness Adventures
For those on a more limited budget, Fernie Wilderness Adventures operates out of a rustic, stacked-log cabin about 20 minutes south of town. Meals are "family-style" and plentiful, and include a picnic lunch. FWA has tenure over 1200ha/3000ac of predominantly glade tree skiing, and there are open chutes that will satisfy intermediate to advanced skiers and snowboarders. A wood-fired hot tub awaits at the end of the day.
For more information on cat skiing near Fernie, head to the Visitor Centre, located off the highway just north of town.