It's impossible to overstate the unspoiled, almost other-worldly beauty of the Queen Charlotte Islands. The Haida name for the southern islands is "Gwaii Haanas," or "Place of Beauty." The beauty and stillness of the remote beaches, old-growth forest and weathered Haida totems are sure to inspire.
Sleeping Beauty Trail is a popular hike near to town. In late summer, it's a good place to see Newcombe daisies, which are unique to the area. There's a short hike to Yakoun Lake, a 40-minute drive from town, that features old-growth spruce and cedar as well as good swimming and picnicking opportunities. There's an even shorter hike on Bonanza Beach, 90 minutes from town, which is quite picturesque.
One hundred km (60 mi) of beautiful, sandy beaches are the main attraction in Naikoon Provincial Park, where you can do a day hike to the bow of the log barge, Pesuta, which was beached in December 1928, or hike 5-7 days on the 89-km (55-mi) East Beach Route. Naikoon Provincial Park is also a popular camping destination. It has two campgrounds, Misty Meadows and Agate Beach. Misty Meadows is located near the artistic community of Tlell and the Tlell River, which offers good Coho and Steelhead fishing.
Cycling on the Queen Charlotte Islands typically involves many stops for sightseeing, beachcombing and wildlife viewing. Many people combine cycling with camping or B&B stays. In any case, you'll find that traffic is light and the roads are relatively free of hills.
Golfers should visit the Willows Golf Course in Sandspit, a nine-hole course through both exposed and forested terrain. Watch out: deer and ravens in the area have been known to steal golf balls!
While artists from diverse backgrounds live and work in the Queen Charlotte Islands, the art, culture and history here are dominated by the Haida, who have lived in the area for 10,000 years. You'll find their jewellery, basketry, carvings and totem poles in every population centre. Weathered totem poles and house posts can also be seen in abandoned Haida villages scattered throughout the islands.
A good place to see recently completed Haida canoes, totem poles and carvings is Skidegate, a thriving Haida village located just 15 minutes from Queen Charlotte City. The village is home to the Haida Heritage Centre at Qay’llnagaay, which has exhibits dedicated to Haida history, art and culture from pre-European times up to the present day.
Visit the Queen Charlotte Visitor Info Centre in Queen Charlotte City to see a richly decorated fabric frieze created by 35 local artists. You can also take a driving tour of galleries and shops throughout the island. Every community has artists, studios or galleries that participate in a signage program, making it easy for visitors to find local artists showing and selling their work independently. Look for a big "a" for artist and a big "r" for route. You can also see old totem poles and other artifacts by chartering a plane or boat to Gwaii Haanas National Park Reserve and Haida Heritage Site.
Please note that anyone intending to visit the Gwaii Haanas must register and attend an orientation session in Queen Charlotte City or Sandspit beforehand. Also note that Gwaii Haanas is remote; you can only get there by air or water, vehicle access is not possible.
Most people who visit the Queen Charlotte Islands are drawn, at least in part, by the opportunity to experience Haida culture and history. You can do just that at the Haida Heritage Centre at Qay’llnagaay, where exhibits illuminate Haida history, art and culture from pre-European times up to the present day. The centre also has decks that extend out to the tip of Qaykun Point, where you can view seabirds, porpoises, seals, sea lions and, in April and May, migrating grey whales.
Haida history and culture can be experienced first hand in the remote Gwaii Haanas National Park Reserve and Haida Heritage Site. The Haida have been connected to this area for over 10,000 years. Take a guided tour of Gwaii Haanas and you will encounter abandoned Haida villages and ancient, weathered totem poles. Among the most impressive of these sites is SGang Gwaay (Anthony Island), home of what is considered to be the most impressive collection of standing Haida mortuary poles in the world. This remarkable village was declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1981.
One of the most exciting places to experience the natural and cultural history of the area is Gwaii Haanas. Mountains and thick forests of cedar, pine and western hemlock dominate the landscape on the 138 islands within its boundaries. Flora and fauna here have evolved in isolation over thousands of years into sub-species of common continental plants and animals. Black bears on the islands grow larger than their continental cousins. The waters around these islands teem with life: grey, Orca, humpback and minke whales all use them, as do dolphins, porpoises and harbour seals.
Naikoon Provincial Park, near Tlell, features 100 km (60 mi) of broad, sandy beaches on its eastern and northern boundaries as well as two campgrounds. You can do a day hike to the bow of the log barge, Pesuta, which was beached in December 1928, or hike 5-7 days on the 89-km (55-mi) East Beach Route.
The Queen Charlotte Islands offer some unique wildlife viewing opportunities. Theory has it that some of them escaped the last Ice Age and, as a result, plants and animals here have evolved in isolation into unique sub-species of their continental counterparts. Some examples include the pine marten, northern saw-wet owl, Steller's jay and North America's largest black bears. Go in April or May to view migrating grey whales and just about any time to view seals, sea lions, porpoises and marine birds. If you're a birder, you're really in for a treat: more than 250 species have been recorded in the area.
The Queen Charlotte Islands have no fast food restaurants, no cell phone service and just one traffic light, so they constitute a peaceful escape in and of themselves. You'll feel more relaxed and rejuvenated the longer you stay. There are lovely beaches on the east coast, near Tlell and along Rennell Sound, where you can always find a spot to be alone with your book, binoculars or picnic lunch. There are also natural hot springs in the Gwaii Haanas National Park Reserve and Haida Heritage Site that are reputed to have restorative qualities.
The Queen Charlotte Islands are world renowned as a year-round fishing destination. Halibut, chinook, coho and steelhead all offer great sport fishing opportunities. Guides and charters are available; licenses can be purchased at various locations in the town.
Novice kayakers can safely explore the islets of Skidegate Inlet, while more experienced paddlers can opt for a thrilling, multi-day excursion to Gwaii Haanas, a remote wilderness only accessible by air or water.
The best place for swimming near town is Yakoun Lake. Or you can soak in a series of volcanically heated mineral pools on Hotspring Island in Gwaii Haanas. To beachcomb and explore the sea life during low tide, head for the beach near Tlell on the east coast or Rennell Sound on the west coast.