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Bella Coola is a wild and wonderful place. In summer, you can hike, climb, fish, camp, raft and canoe in an unspoiled wilderness teeming with birds and wildlife. In winter, when the surrounding mountains receive a thick blanket of snow, you can spend your days heli-skiing, snowshoeing and snowmobiling. Popular sights in the surrounding country include Aboriginal petroglyphs, magnificent waterfalls and a turn-of-the-century cannery village. In town, you can shop for Aboriginal and contemporary art and crafts, visit the local museum or see a stage show.
Bella
Coola is, and always will be, an ideal base for wilderness adventures
because of its proximity to Tweedsmuir Provincial Park, BC's largest at
981,000 ha (2.4 million ac). The park is divided into two main areas,
each with an impressive network of alpine hiking trails. Experienced
backpackers can also follow in the footsteps of a famous explorer on
the 350-km (217-mi) outback portion of the Alexander
Mackenzie/Nuxalk-Carrier Grease Trail. It takes three weeks to complete
and requires a prearranged, mid-hike food drop. Trails for mountain
biking and horseback riding abound in the area and camping options
range from full-service, drive-in campgrounds to self-sufficient,
pure-wilderness experiences.
Some
of the most interesting buildings and structures in the Bella Coola
Valley were built by pioneers. Sons of Norway House, for example, was
built by an early Norwegian settler in an area that is now known as
Hagensborg. It's been completely restored, complete with period
furnishings and household articles. The Bella Coola Museum operates out
of two, turn-of-the-century log houses. The main house, or P.K.
Pedersen Building, was once a schoolhouse. It was built in 1898 by
Rasmus Levelton in lower Bella Coola and was moved to its present site
off the main highway. The secondary house, now the foyer of the P.K.
Pedersen Building, was one of the first permanent houses built by a
European in Bella Coola. It was erected by Captain Thorsen, a surveyor,
in 1892.
The pioneering spirit was alive and well in the Bella
Coola Valley as late as 1953, when local people built themselves a
"Freedom Road" over the Coast Mountains. Frustrated by the provincial
authorities' refusal to build a road that would link the valley to the
provincial highway system, they took the formidable task upon
themselves. Also referred to as the "Hill," the road runs through
Heckman Pass (elevation: 1,524 m (5,000 ft) and includes treacherous
switchbacks and grades of up to 18 per cent.
In
1793, Alexander Mackenzie arrived in the Bella Coola Valley and became
the first European north of Mexico to cross North America. Local
sightseeing boat charters can take you to see Mackenzie Rock, upon
which he wrote: "Alex Mackenzie from Canada by land 22nd July 1793."
Mackenzie used existing Aboriginal trade routes, as well as
knowledgeable Nuxalk and Carrier guides, to achieve his goal. For this
reason, the trail that traces the last leg of his journey today is
called the Alexander Mackenzie/Nuxalk-Carrier Grease Trail. If you're
an experienced backpacker, you can hike the grueling outback portion of
it in about three weeks. The Bella Coola Museum has some excellent
Mackenzie exhibits, as well as local archaeological artifacts,
household articles from early settlers and historic records.
Other
places of historical interest include the Thorsen Creek Petroglyphs,
the Tallheo Cannery and the Sons of Norway Heritage House in
Hagensborg. The petroglyphs number more than 40 in all and are located
just outside the village. You can arrange for a guided tour with the
Nuxalk First Nation band office or the local tourism office. The
cannery, built in the 1920s and recently restored, is just 10 minutes
from the village by boat. In summer, you can stay in bed &
breakfast accommodation there. Sons of Norway Heritage House was built
by Andrew Svisdahl at the turn of the century. It's stocked and
furnished in a manner typical of Norwegian pioneer households.
To see works by contemporary local artists, visit the Art House in Hagensborg.
There
are three terrific attractions just outside Bella Coola: the Thorsen
Creek Petroglyphs, Clayton Falls and Tallheo Cannery. The petroglyphs
were made by local Aboriginal peoples that pecked and abraded rock
surfaces with stone tools in order to create lasting designs. The falls
can be accessed using a 200-m (656-ft) trail that starts near the
Clayton Falls Hydroelectric Generating Station. The restored cannery,
just 10 minutes from town by boat, features historic buildings and
artifacts, hiking trails, bed & breakfast accommodation, a
restaurant and a gift shop.
Just a short drive east of Bella
Coola is the charming community of Hagensborg, which was founded by
Norwegian-Minnesotans in 1894. Its Sons of Norway Heritage House was
built and furnished in the style of a typical, turn-of-the-century
Norwegian home. A 2-km (1.2-mi) local trail through old-growth forest
leads to a viewpoint directly in front of Odegaard Falls. The Snootli
Creek Hatchery, just west of Hagensborg, raises and releases
approximately 10,000,000 Chinook Salmon, Chum Salmon and Steelhead
Trout into local rivers each year.
While
the main entertainment around Bella Coola is Nature herself, you can
have a pretty good time doing "town" things, too. Year-round, you can
browse for locally made crafts at the Sunday market on the Fair
Grounds. In summer, you'll find fruit and vegetable stalls there as
well. Beautiful Aboriginal artwork is widely available year round. The
Petroglyph Gallery, for example, houses a collection of Northwest Coast
Aboriginal art with an emphasis on works by Nuxalk artists. Most local
artists run galleries out of their own homes and you can arrange
viewings with them directly.
The Bella Coola Valley Little
Theatre mounts two productions each year, one in spring and one in
fall. You can also see shows by touring artists brought in by the Bella
Coola Valley Arts Council four times a year. All stage shows are
presented in Lobelco Hall, at the Fair Grounds. The Fair Grounds also
host the annual Discovery Coast Music Festival in mid-July. Music,
dancing, storytelling and other entertainment is provided by local and
international performers.
If
you're prepared to be self-sufficient, Tweedsmuir Provincial Park
offers pure wilderness experiences beyond compare. At 981,000 ha (2.4
million ac), it's the largest wilderness park in BC and the range of
landscapes, waterways and wildlife there is truly breathtaking.
Experienced and well-equipped backpackers can spend days or even weeks
on its backcountry trails. Many visitors make a point of hiking the
Rainbow Range, a volcanic mountain range of vivid reds, violets and
yellows. It takes three to five days to paddle and portage through the
park's scenic Turner Lake Chain, which features crystal-clear water,
mountain vistas and excellent Cutthroat Trout fishing. Hunlen Falls,
one of Canada's tallest falls, is just a short walk from the beginning
of the chain.
In a setting as wild as Bella Coola's, it's only
natural that wildlife should be very much in evidence. At the Bella
Coola Estuary, you can see a wide variety of bird species, including
Bald Eagles, Trumpeter Swans and Great Blue Herons. On a bear watching
trip, you're almost as likely to see Cougars, foxes, wolves and Moose
as you are to see Blacks and Grizzlies. For a glimpse of the rare
Kermode Bear, head to Princess Royal Island. Kermode, or Spirit, Bears
are simply Black Bears with a recessive gene for white fur from both
parents. BC's central/north coast is the only place they're found and,
on the island, about 1 in 10 Black Bears is a Kermode. Princess Royal
Island can only be accessed by boat or floatplane.
Other natural sights of note include Clayton Falls and the grove of immense cedar trees in Walker Island Park.
Some
of Bella Coola's most memorable sights and experiences require a boat
trip. Charter a fishing boat to angle for summer run Steelhead Trout on
the Dean River or catch trophy-weight salmon at Hakai Pass. There is
also excellent fishing - and river rafting - very near town, on the
Bella Coola and Atnarko Rivers. You can spend three to five days
paddling and portaging through the spectacularly scenic Turner Lake
Canoe Chain. Hunlen Falls, one of Canada's highest falls at 253 m (830
ft), is a short walk from the beginning of the chain. On a
sightseeing/wildlife viewing charter, you can visit a hot spring, see
one of BC's biggest western redcedar trees, inspect an 18th century
explorer's inscription on Mackenzie Rock, and view aquatic wildlife,
such as Orcas, Humpback Whales, Grey Whales, seals, sea lions and
dolphins.
The
mountains around Bella Coola receive a thick blanketing of snow in
winter. Two heli-skiing companies operating at opposite ends of the
Bella Coola Valley will get you to the best, deep-powder areas. Half an
hour from town, at East Branch, there are trails suitable for
cross-country skiing, snowshoeing and snowmobiling.
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