 Cape Scott Trail, Cape Scott Provincial Park near Port Hardy, Tourism BC photo
Port Hardy (population: 4,000) is the last bastion of civilization in the remote and wild north end of Vancouver Island. The town has a fascinating blue-collar history and a bright green ecotourist future as it evolves into one of North America's best as-yet undiscovered outdoor adventure destinations. The natural ingredients are all here: fishing, hiking, world-class scuba diving, and serious quantities of wildlife in coastal waters, wilderness parks and the area's nicely mature second-growth woodland habitat make for great viewing.
Cape Scott Provincial Park Other northern Vancouver Island centres have similar super natural assets, but Port Hardy's ace in the hole is Cape Scott Provincial Park. Sitting windswept and ruggedly unspoiled at the island's northern tip, the park is a Disneyland for wilderness hikers and camping enthusiasts. Port Hardy's fine array of shops, restaurants, art galleries, accommodations, and aboriginal cultural attractions are less than an hour away via an upgraded logging road.
Getting Around Port Hardy and Area Port Hardy is the arrival/departure point for BC Ferries service to Prince Rupert and the ferry/highway system leading north to Alaska. It's also Mile Zero for the ribbon of tarmac that finally opened up the north island to auto traffic in the late 1970s. Unfolding through gorgeous mountain scenery like a dream car commercial, Highway 19 leads to Nanaimo, another major ferry terminus five-hours to the south. From there, the Trans Canada Highway points to its own Mile Zero in Victoria, BC's capital, two hours farther. Kwakwaka'wakw First Nations The Kwakwaka'wakw First Nations have tapped the rich resources of sea, river, and forest here since at least 6,000 BCE. The Kwakiutl peoples continue to do so from the Fort Rupert band lands east of town. Highlight: The Copper Maker Gallery, home base for famed carver Calvin Hunt.
A Seaside Community Just past the Fort Rupert turnoff is Storey Beach, a community hotspot ideal for swimming, ocean kayaking, and family picnics. Hikers of all ages also enjoy gentle walks along the riverside Quatse Trail Loop (which bypasses a state-of-the-art salmon hatchery and hooks up with a harbourfront boardwalk leading to Fisherman's Wharf). Charter fishing boats set sail from the marina in Hardy Bay in pursuit of prize catches and wildlife sightings. Dive operators also depart from here enroute to such famed scuba-diving spots as Browning Pass and Hunt Rock, off-shore destinations served by wilderness island resorts.
Downtown Port Hardy's major hotels and businesses line the ocean along Hardy Bay Road and Market Street. The latter is the main street home of the town's museum and archives along with a string of independent entrepreneurs – coffeeshops, restaurants, gift shops, galleries and a local chocolatier included. Plentiful totem poles, murals, and chainsaw-carved signs can be found throughout town.
Where to Begin? The friendly staff of the Port Hardy Visitor Centre (at the junction of Market Street and Hastings Street) can provide great tips and recommendations. Maps, brochures, and the definitive "Things to See and Do in Port Hardy" guide are also available at the Visitor Centre.
|