 Eagle Bear Totem Pole, Tourism BC/Tom Ryan photo
The 'Namgis peoples, a First Nations band within the larger Kwakwaka'wakw nation of northern Vancouver Island, live here on a small slice of territorial lands traditionally known as 'Yalis. They live in hand-waving harmony side-by-side with the largely non-native population that resides in the Village of Alert Bay. Two island museums – one, the internationally renowned U'mista Cultural Centre – colourfully chronicle the tale of these very different cultures.
Cultural Treasures Above all, Alert Bay is a treasure house of Kwakwaka'wakw art, culture and history. The U'mista Cultural Centre is known for its collection of masks, coppers, and potlatch regalia. The brightly coloured Big House is the site of public dance performances in the summer and invitation-only potlatches year-round. Storytelling, canoe tours, cedar weaving workshops, and salmon barbeques are offered by the Culture Shock Interactive Gallery.
Also located here: The world's largest totem pole; the ghostly remains of a First Nations residential school; and an oceanfront graveyard filled with totem poles, several of which have toppled over and are returning to nature as intended by the original Chief carver or his family.
Local Hospitality There's nothing slick or touristy about this peaceful getaway destination. Alert Bay's waterfront setting is spectacular. The shops are locally owned and operated, the folksy restaurants serve good home-cooked food, and everyone here seemingly knows everyone else. In fact, visitors are guaranteed a warm reception from locals, in part because they bring a refreshing novelty factor to island life. (Residents still buzz about talk show queen Oprah Winfrey's visit here in the summer of 2007.)
Day Trip/Overnight Stays Many daytrippers arrive by ferry as foot passengers after leaving their cars back in Port McNeill. Those who don't have the legs or stamina for the steep uphill climbs necessary when exploring the island as a whole are advised to bring their own transportation.
Settle in and stay for a few nights or more by booking a room at one of the limited but diverse selection of accommodations. Quiet evenings and restorative sleeps are a natural byproduct of long days on the water, and hikes along the island's beachfronts and forested trails.
Traveling to/Around Alert Bay Alert Bay is a 40-minute ferry ride across the Broughton Strait from Port McNeill, a smooth four-hour drive on Highway 19 from Nanaimo, and about 5.5-6 hours from Victoria.
The ferry dock and marina is the centre of island life, as it has been ever since steamships began arriving here in the late 19th century. Turn left after driving or walking off one of BC Ferry's regular sailings, and quickly step into the welcoming, easygoing 'Namgis First Nations' side of town (aka 'Yalis). Turn right to the Village of Alert Bay and a compact stretch of stores, B&Bs, restaurants, the Visitor Centre, and the civic museum.
Alert Bay Visitor CentreDrop into the Visitor Centre (116 Fir Street), a three-minute walk into town along the new boardwalk from the ferry dock. Born and raised here, manager Norine Smith is a walking encyclopedia of regional history and can provide visitors with tips, brochures, and pointers. Ask for the Alert Bay Visitor's Information package, an essential guide to the island. The Visitor Centre is open weekdays year-round and on summer weekends.
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