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November 16, 2009 | Tips from Travellers > Vancouver, Dining
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I was lucky enough to receive a hefty gift certificate to MARKET at Shangri-La, Vancouver’s newest (and tallest) hotel. I invited a few friends to join me for a mid-week fancy night out. If you’re thinking of going to MARKET, make your reservations early – the only time I could reserve that week was 8:30 pm on a Wednesday night.
The restaurant is split into a few different sections; we were seated in the “sophisticated fine-dining room.” The bar area was more casual and catered to the after-work suit crowd (they even had their laptop plugged in – I guess drinks and eats in a swanky bar is the norm for that crew).
Our table ordered a bit of everything to maximize our shot at the good life. All the dishes were delish, but there were a few stand-outs: butternut squash soup with mushrooms and chives; truffle mashed potatoes; and cheesecake with roasted figs and concorde grape sorbet.
The food was rich, we never felt rushed during dinner, and the presentation was creative. Merci, Jean-Georges!
October 14, 2009 | Tips from Us > Squamish, Hiking
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The Grouse Grind is considered “Mother Nature’s Stairmaster”, but the Stawamus Chief trail comes a close second. I know this because my thighs are still burning two days later.
This past weekend, three of us tackled the Chief to burn off calories from the previous night’s indulgent camping dinner (Kraft dinner, marshmallows, wine). I was looking forward to checking out the second peak route, as I’d only been to the first peak on previous Chief hikes.
The first and second peaks share the same trail for most of the journey. It’s steep, rocky and rooty. The trail was busy, but not packed, and there were lots of dogs hiking with their owners (patting friendly dogs is a good excuse for a break).
Near the top, the trail splits and the route to the second peak gets a little more challenging than the route to the first. Like the first peak, there are chains to help climb up and around the huge slabs of rocks, but they required a little more attention.
That being said, though, there were some children (maybe aged 7 and 10?) with their dad on the route; we stopped to give them a hand climbing the rocks and chains. They did great! It’s always awesome to see young kids out in the woods. They took it slow and steady and made it to the top with everyone else.
It took us an hour to hike up, and less time down. The trail was dry, but if there was a recent rainfall it would have slick, especially on the rocks.
The view of the water, mountains and Squamish was fantastic, and it was neat to see the first peak from the second peak. If you have the energy, I’d recommend the second peak over the first to avoid crowds. Feeling really energetic? There’s a third peak with even less people.
October 14, 2009 | Tips from Travellers > Squamish, Camping
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When I think Thanksgiving, I think turkey (or rather, tofurkey) not tents. Well, this weekend I learned that a lot of people think tents, RVs and warm campfires on the Canadian Thanksgiving long weekend.
Our plan was to take our new/old ’88 Westfalia campervan on a maiden voyage over the long weekend. We had a few campsite requirements: within cellphone range of Vancouver in case something falls off the Westy; no crazy unpaved roads; campfire. Bonus points for electric plug-in so we could make smoothies in the morning (hey – I didn’t say this was rustic).
Alice Lake Provincial Park in Squamish sounded good to us. We rolled in around 6pm, and were blown away by the number of people who had the same idea, albeit with more functional vehicles. Our smoothie dream was crushed when we found all 55 electric plug-in campsites were already taken. Nonetheless, we were able to find a nice spot tucked in the trees.
All that was left to do was to sit around the crackling fire, cook dinner on our campstove, and eat what seemed like a zillion marshmallows (they were the mini-kind, which made for some eclectic roasting methods). It was a clear night, so we had a nice view of stars peeking between the silhouettes of tree branches above. In the morning, we checked out Alice Lake and watched a fellow camper take his dog paddleboarding.
Before we left, the campground operator told us that more than ¾ of the 108 Alice Lake campsites were full, and that ALL of the 60 campsites in nearby Porteau Cove Provincial Park had been full since the Wednesday before the long weekend. Wow! I had no idea so many people went camping and RVing for Thanksgiving.
Overall, I had a relaxing, bug-free, quiet camping trip at Alice Lake Provincial Park. I’d definitely consider camping as a future Thanksgiving activity. Now all I need to figure out is how to roast a tofurkey over an open campfire
October 2, 2009 | Tips from Travellers > North Vancouver, Hiking
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My vision of a casual trek in the woods seemed further and further away as I slogged behind my hiking buddies. The speed demon of the two (increasingly distant) figures up the steep slope had been enjoying a period of unemployment. Turns out that not working, while bad for the wallet, is great for developing thighs of steel on weekday hikes.
In between heaving for air and dodging rocks dislodged from the boys above, I took a second to look behind me and had one of those “I can’t believe I’m in BC” moments. I felt like I’d wandered into a Lord of the Rings flick, complete with misty clouds, thick conifers, freshly sprouting spring grasses, and jutting boulders.
In actuality, though, I was an area called Hanes Valley beyond Grouse Mountain. It’s an interesting, challenging and rewarding hike that takes you from well-travelled trails to complete wilderness in the space of a few hours. The full day hike ends at the peak of Grouse, which means we finished our day in the woods with lumberjacks, poutine and a blissfully effortless tram ride back down to the city.
September 29, 2009 | Tips from Us > Vancouver, Hiking
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Most people hike the
Baden Powell trail in sections, though there are some hardcore runners who do it in a day during the infamous Knee Knackering North Shore Trail Run. Me? I fall somewhere in the middle and set out to tackle it in a weekend.
The trail is 48km long and runs from Horseshoe Bay to Deep Cove. Three unique aspects of this trail are:
1. It’s accessible by public transit at either end, as well as in a few points in the middle.
2. It’s more of a traverse that a summit, so when you look at the skyline from Vancouver you’re likely to be looking at a section you completed.
3. If you live near Vancouver, you can go home to make dinner and sleep in your own bed in between days – awesome!
Baden Powell Trip ReportDay 1: Horseshoe Bay to Cleveland Dam, 10 hours (we took it slow and there was loads of snow)
Transport: 257 bus (Horseshoe Bay express) to trailhead at Eagle Ridge; 236 and 240 buses from Cleveland Dam back to Vancouver
Highlights:
- Seeing a deer 10 minutes into the hike
- Having the trail to ourselves for hours at a time, with no one around except for friendly ravens and whiskey-jacks
- Incredible view from Eagle Bluffs (the pic shown is proof)
- Neat old cabins in Cypress Provincial Park
Day 2: Grouse Mountain to Deep Cove (7 hours)
Transport: 240 and 232 buses to Grouse Mountain, nice friend-with-car from Deep Cove back to Vancouver (but buses would have been possible, too)
Highlights:
- Watching mountain bikers hop and balance (with hooting and hollering) their chunky bikes on the trails
- More people meant lots of friendly trail dogs giving slobbery hellos
- Seeing wiry runners training for the Knee Knacker run
- Interesting section from Lynn Canyon towards Deep Cove – never been here and was cool to check it out. Boardwalks, a mini-Grouse Grind, and beautiful forests.
Would I do the whole thing again? Heck yes. It’s a great trail that passes through forests, bluffs and wetlands – and it’s practically in my backyard. Highly recommended.
August 10, 2009 | Tips from Travellers > Kelowna, Breweries, Distilleries & Cideries
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The Kelowna area is known for its many fine wineries, but for those who prefer their liquids to be of the barley, hops and malt variety, take note: Tree Brewing has a cold one (or six) waiting just for you.
A stop at Tree Brewing wasn’t part of our original Kelowna plan, but we spotted a sign so we hung a left and checked it out.
Their chilly beer cooler room was stocked with a fine selection and served as a welcome break from the sweltering Kelowna heat (I’m a coastal wimp and melt in anything above 25°C). Beer samples were available to help parched visitors make up their mind about what to purchase.
As nice as it was in the cooler room, my favorite part of the visit was actually on the outside of the building: huge hops vines scaled the white bricks, all the way to the roof. Hops, one of the crucial elements of a fine brew, are known for growing very tall – and very quickly.
The Tree Brewing staff told us that hops could grow about one foot per day, and the vines out front reached the roof of the building in just three weeks! Very cool to see beer ingredients in their raw form.
June 12, 2009 | Tips from Travellers > Ucluelet, Aquariums
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This place is awesome. I convinced two friends to join me and they were so enamoured they visited again the next day.
The Ukee (local-speak for Ucluelet) Aquarium is open seasonally and admission is $5. It’s stocked with loads of live ocean critters caught on purpose and by accident from the local waters. The best part? They release the creatures back to their natural habitats when they’ve outgrown their tank or at the end of the season.
The Giant Pacific Octopus was incredible. We saw it while it was feeling feisty, so it did lots of colour changing, siphoning and suckering in its tank. The staff even fed it a crab! It didn’t actually eat the crab while we there – who wants to chow down with an audience watching? – but it was impressive nonetheless.
The Aquarium isn’t in a huge space, but it’s jammed to the gills with undersea goodies and a couple of touch tanks. Look for sea stars, jellies, anemones, corals, fish, snails and the disco decorator crab tank (you have to see it to believe it). The staff members were friendly and very knowledgeable.
If it’s raining on your next visit to Ucluelet or Tofino, the Aquarium would be a great way to spend time. Even if it’s sunny, tear yourself away from beach to visit the aquarium and see all the ocean morsels that call this part of the planet home.
May 4, 2009 | Tips from Travellers > Squamish, Wind-Surfing
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I went camping in Squamish this weekend, and on the way back to Vancouver we made a slight detour to watch kiteboarders at the Spit.
The Spit is a long, narrow gravel road (actually a breakwater) that juts out into the mouth of the Squamish River. Getting to the Spit is relatively easy; the roads are well marked until the last crucial couple of turns. With a little perseverance, we found our way and gently eased our rental car along the dusty gravel road.
The backdrop at the Spit was spectacular, with a fantastic view of the Stawamus Chief and Shannon Falls behind the brightly coloured, looping kites. There were about a half dozen kiteboarders on the water, with another half dozen on land preparing to go out.
It’s amazing how much speed kiteboarders pick up as the glide across the water – and how much height they get in the air. Some of them must have been 20 feet above our heads. They seemed to like to do all their fancy jumps and tricks right near the spectators on the Spit.
I’m sure they were making it look a lot easier than it actually was… although we did see one pair of kiteboarders doing the “walk of shame” after being caught downwind. They were forced to gingerly step (barefoot) along the long gravel road back towards the launch site.
We spent half an hour being entertained by kiteboarders. Next time, we’ll bring chairs and extra layers of clothing – even though we weren’t actually in the cold water, it was still chilly just watching due to the blustery winds. On a warm summer day, this would be a unique place to snack on a picnic lunch in the afternoon.
May 4, 2009 | Tips from Travellers > Ucluelet, Hiking
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I spent an afternoon walking along Lighthouse Loop, a portion of Ucluelet’s Wild Pacific Trail that clings to the rim of the shoreline before weaving along boardwalks in the forest.
If you walk this trail, bring a pair of binoculars to watch the boats and birds in the distance. On my trip, a bald eagle was perched on a jagged, black rock near the surf, calmly dodging dive-bombing seagulls.
The shoreline trees on this trail have survived so many wild ocean storms that they are permanently sculpted, giving the illusion they’re being blown by the wind even when the air is calm.
As expected, part of Lighthouse Loop includes a lighthouse; Amphitrite Lighthouse and the surrounding tangle of rocks, tidepools and surge channels were fun to explore during low tide.
The loop takes less than an hour to complete. On the drive back to our campsite, we spotted a doe and two fawns nimbly stepping into the bushes next to the road. Always have your camera handy on the west coast – you never know when nature will decide to wander past your car window.
May 4, 2009 | Tips from Travellers > Squamish, Camping
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The sun was shining and we were in the mood for a Friday night camping getaway. Since this was the first camping trip of the season, we were looking for a place that was quiet, was easy to get to from Vancouver, and had basic amenities (water, flush toilets, firewood).
Paradise Valley Campground in Squamish fit the bill.
When we signed in at the campground, we met the hosts and picked up firewood ($5 for all you can carry) before heading to our site. The campground was clean and well maintained, and came with a resident hummingbird that buzzed around at dusk and dawn.
An unexpected camping highlight was rock-painting... the hosts will set you up with paints and brushes (free) and then let you unleash your inner Van Gogh on any rocks that you can fit in your hand. The result was colourful rocks tucked into corners of all the campsites (my own masterpieces are pictured above). Kids would love this! I’m proof that grown-ups find it pretty fun, too.
The next morning we hiked the short but straight-up trail to Brohm Lake from the campground. We couldn’t find the trail that went down to the lake (just a viewpoint of the lake), but it was a good way to stretch our legs and get out in the woods. Along the way, we saw more dogs (4) than people (2). The “boulder caves” were pretty neat, and are located at the beginning of the trail for campers who are too full of s’mores to hike the whole thing.
A few mosquito bites later, we headed back to the city in time to watch the Canucks game at home. If you’re looking for an easy, early season camping trip, I’d recommend Paradise Valley in Squamish.
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