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Pan Phillips Fish Camp

August 11, 2009 | Tips from Travellers > Quesnel, Horseback Riding

 When he rode to the Anahim Lake Stampede in 1977, Dale Dunn and a group of his friends were hosted overnight by the legendary Pan Phillips at his fish camp on the Blackwater River.  From 24 June to 14 July 2009, Dale and Yvonne Dunn led a horseback trek from Titetown Lake to Anahim Lake and return.  During this trek we had the pleasure of visiting Pan's son Robbie and his wife Linda at the Pan Phillips Fish Camp, which they continue to operate on a year-round basis.  Robbie and Linda were extremely gracious hosts who invited us into their home (and main lodge), which is replete with memorabilia extolling the life and times of Pan Phillips.  Anyone who has read the numerous books about Pan's life and adventures would relish a visit to the Pan Phillips Fish Camp, as would anyone wishing to avail themselves of the magnificent fishing opportunities afforded by the Blackwater River.  The accompanying photo shows (left to right) Linda Phillips, Yvonne Dunn, Robbie Phillips and Dale Dunn with the main lodge in the background.

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Posted by Ray, Almonte at 07:57 PM

Blackwater Spruce Ranch

July 29, 2009 | Tips from Travellers > Quesnel, Horseback Riding

In 1977 Dale Dunn and a group of friends rode from the family ranch, just west of Quesnel, to attend the 41st annual Anahim Lake Stampede.  That year, 57 head of horses were ridden or driven to Anahim Lake on this annual pilgrimage.  Significantly, at one of their overnight stops, they were  hosted by the legendary Pan Phillips at his fly-in fish camp on the Blackwater River.  Over the years the number of visitors arriving by horse for the Stampede steadily declined until they were just a memory.  This year Dale and Yvonne Dunn, owners of the Blackwater Spruce Ranch, organized and led the first horse-powered expedition to Anahim Lake in over 20 years.  I had the distinct pleasure of participating in this almost historic adventure.  Leaving from their property on Titetown Lake on 24 June, three wagons and nine riders (15 people, 17 horses and two dogs) crossed the Euchineko River and picked up the old wagon road to Kluskus and beyond.  Ten days later on 3 July, after riding and driving almost 200 miles, we arrived, somewhat trail-worn, at Anahim Lake.  Enroute we visited Robbie and Linda Phillips, who live year-round at, and still operate Pan Phillips' fish camp.  Five miles further on we camped overnight at the famous, but now deserted, Home Ranch.  Many of the other ranches along the trail have also been deserted over the years, but Jim Chadwell, and Walter and Norah Lambert still pursue their traditional lifestyles on the interior plateau.  Our welcome at Anahim Lake could not possibly have been any warmer, and the 73rd annual Anahim Lake Stampede provided a much appreciated and truly memorable interlude, after which we retraced our route back to Titetown Lake.  The horses, refreshed after their two day respite, were quick to recognize that their noses were now pointed east, and as a result the return trip was completed in just nine days.  I characterized this trip as an expedition, and not by accident.  We camped out nightly, experienced a wide variety of weather conditions, crossed and recrossed the Euchineko and Blackwater Rivers, cleared deadfalls, repaired wagons and a bridge, shod horses and just generally lived a lifestyle that most can only read about.  Dale and Yvonne did a truly amazing job of planning and conducting this adventure, and everyone who participated in it has lived a piece of history.  This was an amazing trip and it ought to be on the "bucket list" of every horse person who truly wishes to re-live a long-forgotten, and much simpler lifestyle.

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Posted by Ray, Almonte at 01:29 PM

Blackwater-Spruce Ranch

February 1, 2009 | Tips from Travellers > Quesnel, Horseback Riding

 In his books, Grass Beyond The Mountains, Nothing Too Good For A Cowboy, and The Rancher Takes A Wife; Richmond P. Hobson, Jr recounts the story of himself and fellow cowboy-adventurer, Panhandle Phillips. In 1934 they traveled from Wyoming to British Columbia in search of the last great North American cattle frontier, finally establishing the Frontier Cattle Company in 1937. Today it is possible to travel the trails blazed by Rich and Pan, guided by a third-generation Cariboo-country rancher who actually overnighted at Pan Phillips' fish camp in 1977, while riding to the Anahim Lake Stampede.

Dale and Yvonne Dunn own the Blackwater-Spruce Ranch, located about 60 Km north-west of Quesnel, on which they raise high quality Angus-Hereford cattle. They also conduct ranch-related activities such as spring branding, cattle drives, and horse trekking.  They are the only operators in BC licensed to conduct horse treks on the Alexander Mackenzie Heritage Trail (AMHT). Last summer I joined Dale and Yvonne for a 10-day trek from the ranch to Kluskoil Lake Provincial Park and return, with overnight stops at Blackwater Crossing, at a primitive campsite along the AMHT, at Gillies Crossing Forestry Station on the Euchineko River and at Titetown Lake. The hospitality was outstanding, the scenery magnificent, and the experience unforgettable.

I am returning to the Blackwater-Spruce this summer (24 June - 14 July) for a spectacular 22-day, 400 mile ride to the Anahim Lake Stampede and return. This trek will follow the AMHT and the old Kluskus wagon road that Pan Phillips used until 1969 to drive his cattle to Quesnel. This trek will include overnight stops at Gillies Crossing, Titetown Lake, Kluskoil Lake, Pan Meadow crossing, Kluskus, and the home ranch, among others. For serious horsemen this adventure is unique in Canada. In fact there are very few operators in North America who offer horseback treks of this scope and duration.

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Posted by Ray, Almonte at 07:06 PM