 Patio on Salt Spring Island, John Cameron photo
For a small island, Salt Spring is a big-league destination for restaurants, coffeeshop culture and good food. The vibe here is relaxed, welcoming and charmingly down-to-earth. And the dress code is very much come-as-you-are. Even the white tablecloth restaurant at the Hastings House hotel, a widely acclaimed epicurean hotspot, is content with patrons wearing "smart casual" attire. The majority of eateries are scattered around the main roads, side streets and central square of Ganges. A downtown walkabout that includes visits to Gasoline Alley at the foot of the Fulford-Ganges Road and the harbourfront Grace Point Square sums up the options neatly – Italian, Mexican, southeast Asian, sushi, seafood, pizza, European and several creative interpretations of west-coast fusion using locally grown and sourced ingredients. Many dishes go well with Salt Spring Fine Ales, brewed right on the island. Outside of Ganges, there are excellent and affordable view restaurants in Vesuvius, Fulford Harbour and Fernwood. Coffeeshop Central Choosing where to do so is the only drawback in tracking down a cup of dark roast in Ganges. One downtown favorite is the Salt Spring Roasting Company (109 McPhillips Road), which has evolved from humble beginnings into one of Canada's leading micro-roasters of fair trade and organic coffee. The bulletin boards here and at the neighboring T.J. Beans Coffee Shop (110 Lower Ganges Road) are crammed with current-event info and other revealing scraps of island life. Those seeking fresh baked goods along with their java have three superb options in town: Barb's Buns (121 McPhillips Avenue), the Embe Bakery (174 Fulford-Ganges Road) and Jana's Bake Shop (324 Upper Ganges Road). Among the treats are Barb's chewy cinnamon twists, the Embe's raisin-packed eccles cakes and Jana's fruit pies. Salt Springers catching the Fulford ferry typically park their car in line and nip over to the Morningside Organic Bakery & Café (107 Morningside Drive) for a vegan nosh or to browse the café's fine selection of books. In Fernwood on the island's northeast coast, the North Island Coffee Co. and Delicatessen (325 Fernwood Road) offers postcard views of Wallace Island and the nearby government dock along with a takeaway selection of locally caught tuna and salmon. Restaurants Among Salt Spring's plentiful dining options are the following: * Auntie Pesto's Café and Delicatessen (Grace Point Square). A breakfast and lunch hang-out in Ganges featuring fresh, inexpensive dishes best enjoyed on the sunny waterfront patio. * Bocados Bistro (Grace Point Square). Great views of the Ganges Marina, tasty tapas bites and a dinner menu highlighted by seared ahi tuna, halibut cheeks and locally caught specials. * House Piccolo (108 Hereford Avenue). Cozy heritage house on a Ganges side street serves Salt Spring lamb, Muscovy duck, B.C. venison and what Conde Nast Traveller magazine once termed "the island's best meals." * Moby's Marine Pub (124 Upper Ganges Road). Live music on weekends, a roaring fire and postcard views of Ganges Harbour make this one of the island's liveliest nightspots. * Oystercatcher Seafood Bar & Grill (Mouat's Landing, Ganges). Small plate dishes, burgers and seafood specials are served here along with choice harbourside views from the second-floor restaurant and waterfront patio. * Raven Street Market Café (321 Fernwood Road). Steps from the Fernwood dock, the island's lone northend restaurant serves New Orleans-style gumbo, etouffee and blackened catfish along with an inventive selection of wood-fired pizzas. * Rock Salt (2921 Fulford-Ganges Road). Gumboot rancheros (an island spin on the Mexican egg dish), spicy hot pots and naan-bread sandwiches are among the signature items. Steps from the Fulford Harbour ferry landing. * Salt Spring Inn (132 Lower Ganges Road). Weekend brunches here are a tradition for many local residents as are the Sunday jazz nights featuring musicians from Salt Spring and beyond. * Tree House Café (106 Purvis Lane). Set back in a quiet waterside corner of Ganges' central square, the Tree House serves vegetarian fare and presents live music every night of the summer. BYOC (Bring Your Own Chair) for the overflow concerts. * Seaside Restaurant (795 Vesuvius Bay Road). Watch the sunset over Vancouver Island while enjoying British-style fish and chips and other seafood dishes.
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