The Coast Salish arrived in this fertile pocket of Vancouver Island circa 2500 BCE according to the latest archeological evidence. The Quw'utsun' (English translation: Cowichan) peoples named themselves and their territory "the warm lands" in honour of its abnormally temperate climate and long growing season.
The modern Cowichan nation is comprised of seven bands – namely the Comeakin, Clemclemaluts, Kilpaulus, Koksilah, Quamichan, Khenipsen and Somena bands. Approximately 3,900 First Nations people live in the valley today.
Set on 2.4ha/6ac beside the Cowichan River at the edge of Duncan, the Quw'utsun' Cultural & Conference Centre is a complex of long houses, totem poles, native plant gardens, and riverside walking trails. It captures the Cowichan people's living traditions. Open June to mid-September.
Hour-long cultural tours are available for individual visitors, while larger groups can book mid-day salmon barbeques and performances by the Quw'utsun' Dancers. While here, lunch on savory First Nations versions of salmon cakes, breaded oysters, and blackberry shortcake at the Riverwalk Café.
City of Totems
More than 80 totem poles are found in Duncan, most of them in the old-town centre west of the railway tracks. Yellow sidewalk shoeprints lead the way from one pole to the next. For a quick taste of these treasures, check out the dense concentration of them along Station Street. (The world's widest pole, carved in 1988 by Richard Hunt and measuring 1.8m/6ft in diameter, is at the west end of the street).
Another option: Join a guided tour of 41 downtown poles offered daily from May to the end of September by the Duncan Business Improvement Area Society. Tours depart on the hour mid-morning to early afternoon from the train station (130 Canada Way).
First Nations Art & Cowichan Knits
The late Simon Charlie, an Order of Canada carver, is just one of many fine Cowichan artists who have created a wealth of artistic work. The gallery and gift shop at the Quw'utsun' Cultural Centre is a good starting point for browsers. Genuine Cowichan sweaters, the trademark cold-weather woolen garment that has had a revival in recent years in fashionista circles, can be ordered here.
The Judy Hill Gallery (22 Station Street) is a treasure house of masks, cedar baskets, jewellery, bentwood boxes, and First Nations giftware; the namesake owner is often on site, and she's a walking encyclopedia of First Nations lore, history and insight. Just south of town, Hill's Native Art Koksilah (5209 Trans-Canada Highway) offers First Nation art and Cowichan knits, including scarves, mitts, socks, purses, and hats.
Stop by the Duncan-Cowichan Visitor Centre for more information about the area's Aboriginal culture and history.
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