August 27, 2010 | Tips from Travellers >
Ucluelet, Surfing & Watersports
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Imagine sitting on the horizon. You’re floating in the water with the sounds of breaking waves behind you. You’re looking out to the open ocean, forever. The clouds have split to showcase the pinks, oranges, and reds of a setting sun. Your legs dangle in the cold salt water, your perch is 9 feet of epoxy glass, and you see it coming in on the outside.
It’s a set.
The first wave rolls under you. You bob over it and catch the smile from the surfer beside you. The second wave is approaching and he gives you a nod. This one is for you.
You spin your board around and start paddling into position. You’re going to catch this wave on the shoulder, turn left, and carve it until is breaks into white wash. With the daylight expiring this will be your last ride.
With a quick glance behind you, you know it’s time to start paddling, and hard. Paddle, paddle, paddle…the power of the wave catches the back of your board. You grip your rails, push down to set the fins and pop up, dropping in down a green wall of water you carve immediately to your left. Turns: one, two, three, and you ride it out.
Once on shore you pull off your leash and look back out into the surf. A few stranglers are catching their last waves in. The water is cold dripping down your face; it’s salty on your lips. The neoprene of your wet suit squeaks against your board as you walk it back to the parking lot.
A sunset surf at Wickanninish Beach. You can’t think of anything better than that.