April 30, 2009 | Tips from Travellers >
Whistler, Skiing & Snowboarding
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My husband and I were lucky enough to travel to Whistler BC in late March 09 courtesy of the BC Tourist Board. We had heard great reports about the Ski resort and were excited to be visiting the site of the 2010 Winter Olympics. We were also looking forward to seeing Canada in the Winter, after a three weeks Summer road trip the previous year.
After a 10 hour flight and three hour transfer we arrived at our accomodation in the centre of Whistler, The Blackcomb Lodge and Spa. The Lodge was ideally placed in the Market Square and had helpful and friendly staff on hand. The room we had was spacious and comfortable with microwave and fridge.
The following day we collected our Ski equipment and headed to the lifts. There were at least three lifts taking Skiers, Boarders and foot passengers up either Whistler of Blackcomb Mountains. These lifts were always well staffed and excellently managed, we never had to stand in line for more than 5 minutes, a pleasant experience after Europe.
Once on the Piste we were faced by miles and miles of well posted and groomed slopes, that more than challenged our ability. The friendliness and discipline and overall civility of the people we came into contact with was most refreshing. There were also numerous safety staff on hand should anything go wrong.
Overall my opinion of Whistler BC Canada is that if you get the chance its a must. Fantastic scenary, Skiing and people and off course the Apres.
April 23, 2009 | Tips from Travellers >
Port McNeill, Whale Watching
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Last September we visited Vancouver Island and spent a few days in Port
McNeill where we went on a kayak day trip, a whale watching tour and
visited the first nations cultural centre in Alert Bay.
We went kayaking with Kingfisher Wilderness Adventures and from their
shop they drove us to Telegraph Cove where we launched our kayaks. Our
guide was very honest saying that while orcas were in the area we can
only go so far in a day and we may or may not see them but that there
would be plenty to see no matter what. He wasn't kidding. Before lunch
we saw seals, sea lions, porpoises and lots of bald eagles. After lunch
we explored some nearby islands, the guide had us all stop and listen
and we could all hear the blow of a whale. I though we are about to see
orcas but he said no it was a humpback whale. We paddled a little
further and we soon saw it's back as it surfaced, it was huge! As we
were watching the whale the guide said to get our cameras ready as it
would soon dive and probably shows it tail. And on cue it did just that
but unfortunately was turned sideways to us so I did not get a good
photo. As we were waiting for it to surface again the guide told us
there was a pod of orcas heading our way (he had a little radio to talk
to other whale watchers). Within 10 minutes the orcas came into view
with a couple of other boats following behind. The guide had us all
come together and wait, he said we are not allowed to get too close so
as not to disturb them. They were going pretty fast but a few surfaced
right in front of us and I got a photo of it! I could not imagine how
seeing them on the larger boat could beat this.
Turned out that the large boat tour was good as well, just different.
We went with Mackay Whale Watching. After leaving Port McNeill we
headed back to the are were were kayaking the day before but kept on
going to the Robson Bight area - an area closed to boats where the orca
go to rub on the pebble beaches. We waited outside this area and could
see the blows of the orcas in the distance. They did not seem to be in
any hurry to leave the area so we then headed off and saw humpback
whales. We saw 5 different humpbacks that day and even heard one
trumpet - at least thats what I think the captain said - apparently
they do it when annoyed and this guy was being mobbed by a group of
dolphins. We ended up going back toward Robson Bight and got to see the
orcas as they came out and started swimming back to where we saw them
the day before in our kayaks.
Our kayak guide had suggested we visit Alert Bay. So on the last day
before driving back towards Nanaimo we took the morning ferry from Port
McNeill to Alert Bay. The cultural centre is a 20 minute walk from the
ferry and it had great displays of masks, artworks and tools and many
displays describing the banning of the potlatch. Before getting back on
the ferry we also visited at the native cemetery and it's memorial
poles right on the waterfront. It was well worth the extra time to
visit.
April 17, 2009 | Tips from Travellers >
Pemberton, Hot Springs
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Soaking in hot springs is one my favourite ways to relax. I’ve been to a few developed hot springs in BC (Ainsworth, Halcyon, Fairmont and Radium), and decided it was time to step my soaking up a notch with an undeveloped hot spring.
Armed with internet research and the book, “Hot Springs of Western Canada: a Complete Guide”, a crew of three of us headed out in our truck along dusty logging roads in search of natural hot springs.
One flat tire and a few wrong turns later, we’d reached our destination: rock lined pools set next to steamy, fern-draped cliffs and a rushing river. The water temperature varied, with a too-hot-to-touch waterfall on one end the scale and a chilly river on the other.
We spent hours lounging around, shaded from the summer sun by leafy trees, and chatted with friendly locals who showed us the best place to dip in the river for an invigorating cold plunge (a little too invigorating for my liking).
The pièce de résistance? Natural floating coasters a former hot spring visitor had thoughtfully left behind (as shown in the photo). Perfect for holding candles and beverages.
If you like hot water and road less travelled, pick up the hot springs book to find your own slice of soaking nirvana. Also recommended: a good backroad mapbook and a spare tire.
April 15, 2009 | Tips from Travellers >
Victoria, Fishing
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The South Island is usually the first place in the province to experience the spring fishing bight, and Victoria is no exception. It is no wonder that the earliest fishing derby of the year is on Elk/Beaver lake in early April. The fish can also be surprising large rivalling even the much lauded lakes of the Thompson/Nicola. Rumor has it that this year's derby winner was a 4 1/2 pound rainbow! That's no small potatoes. That fish would have been about double the size of the one you see in this photo. However, I did get three fish the week before the derby all over two pounds. I caught them all on a Wigglewood plug that I got from Black Creek Fly and Tackle. The Watermelon plug is what did the trick. Some other lakes on the South Island that hold larger than average trout to try out in April include Fuller lake, Cowichan Lake and Loon lake near Port Alberni. Have fun.
April 15, 2009 | Tips from Travellers >
Victoria, Fishing
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The South Island is usually the first place in B.C. to experience the new season's spring fishing, and Victoria is no exception. It is no wonder that the earliest of the freshwater derbies is held on Elk/Beaver lake in early April. And wonder of wonders the fish can be surpirisingly large. Rumor has it that a four pound rainbow took the prize this year. That will be about double the size of the fish you see in this photo. I caught it on a Wigglewood plug that I obtained from Black Creek Fly and Tackle. The Watermelon plug caught me three fish of that size the weekend before the derby. A few other lakes down that way to check out for good size fish are Fuller, Thetis and Loon lake near Port Alberni. I love getting out in the early part of the season. The weather is comfortable, the water skiers aren't out yet and the fishing is fantastic.
April 15, 2009 | Tips from Travellers >
Cranbrook, Biking
Just north of Cranbrook is a peaceful, easy biking trial that I love to ride. It's called Isadore Canyon Trail - named for an historic leader Chief Isadore (Chief of the Ktunaxa Nation in the late 19th century). It's an old gravel & dirt railbed that winds through undeveloped countryside. Side trails provide access to the maze of trails through the Cranbrook Community Forest, which skirts the city of Cranbrook to the south & east. Here you can build muscle and character testing out what some would probably consider small moutainsides. For me, they are a nice WALK!
The trail is part of the Trans Canada Trail system, so you can find it on tctrail.ca (trail locator #10-0040). I prefer to join the trail at midpoint, outside of the city. There's a small parking close to the highway overpass at the north end of Cranbrook. Access is off a small businesess frontage road shortly before the overpass on the city side: look for Ranchers Supply and Sandor Rentals. The trail takes you past a swampy area that often has wildlife around and in it. There are a few picnic tables along the way, some close rocky canyons and some wide open spaces. It provides a nice mix of sun & shade on summer days. The trail links into ranchlands at the north end. It is rarely "busy" but I do sometimes cross paths with families and other "easy bikers" like me.
This trail would be a great break from highway for anyone biking through - say to Fernie - one of the most popular mountain biking destinations in Canada. And there's a rails to trials project in the works as well, which will open up a railbed between Cranbrook & Kimberley. I can hardly wait!
April 13, 2009 | Tips from Travellers >
Sooke, Sightseeing Tours
Sooke is a little off the “beaten path” as far as Victoria tourists are concerned. We have a few but very worth wile places to visit. Just like visiting Saltspring Island or Cowichan Valley, you pretty well have to make it a day trip, but it can and will be exciting and eventful.
Imagine this scenario: early sunny morning you jump into your car and drive out to Sooke where first, you can fill up with coffee, pastries and some picnic fixings. Little Vienna Bakery is a fantastic spot to drop by to do that. Then, you head out up the coast and you will have at least half a dozen of great beaches to visit. Most of then have spectacular trails, long and short, well marked and many have picnic areas and free parking. You can be free to go as far or as close as you wish. Within first minutes from Sooke town you will hit the first few beaches, the farther you go the wilder they get, if you enjoy a bit of drive, you can get all the way to Port Renfrew which is the only open ocean point on this side of the island. Wonder Botanical Beach with it's tide pools and ten foot waves. On the way back stop by BC's first meadery at Tugwellcreek Farm and sample this ancient beverage as well as their organic honey. By now, you've had enough fresh air so turn into our Sooke Harbour House to browse its' extensive indoor/outdoor unconventional Art Gallery. Stay for dinner or even spend the night. If you trip happens to be on a Friday, enjoy an appetizer and a glass of fine wine in the Lounge listening to some live music in the Garden Room.
April 08, 2009 | Tips from Travellers >
Vancouver, Surfing & Watersports
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Tofino is the first location that comes to mind when you hear about surfing in BC. But what about surfing in the big city? Vancouver’s known as the place where you can sail, golf and ski in the same day… and if the conditions are
just right, you can add “surf” to that list.
In late March, spring winds were whipping across the trees and beaches of Stanley Park, which created conditions for a Vancouver surf attempt. Surfer, wetsuit, surfboard and camera-handler (me) all went into the truck to reach Third Beach in Stanley Park before the winds died down.
Bundled up seawall joggers did a double-take when they saw a wetsuit-clad figure carrying a surfboard down to the water at Third Beach. No pretty point breaks here! Any strategy for riding the waves was reduced to “avoid mussel-encrusted rocks”.
Twenty-minutes of battling washing machine style waves (for the surfer) and huddling next to wind blown cliffs wishing I had brought another layer of clothes (for me) resulted in a neat shot of surfing in Vancouver. Big city surfing – who knew?
April 07, 2009 | Tips from Travellers >
Squamish, Snowshoeing
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If you’re relatively fit and have your own backcountry camping gear, the Elfin Lakes Route in Garibaldi Provincial Park makes for a scenic overnight snowshoeing trip within easy reach from Vancouver.
In mid-February, I joined six other friends for a snowshoeing adventure weekend. Our plan was to stay overnight in the hiker's cabin at Elfin Lakes, but when we got there, we discovered that someone had constructed three igloos just a short walk from the cabin. A closer look revealed that they were all vacant, so three of us decided that this was an opportunity we couldn't pass up! We definitely made the right choice... even though the temperature was below freezing and my boots had turned into blocks of ice by morning, we had a better sleep than the rest of our group who opted for the crowded (albeit toasty-warm) cabin.
The route to Elfin Lakes is 11 km (7 mi) one-way and is well marked. However, be sure to bring tire chains during the winter months for the sometimes icy drive to the trailhead. And if your heart is set on staying overnight, come prepared to camp outside, as the cabin fills up quickly on weekends.